Bienvenidos en Santiago de Chile

Santiago is filled with people, overcrowded trains at peak hours and a big smog issue. Our first impressions when we arrived at night was the size of the place, it’s pretty huge! With over 10 million people it has houses over one third of the entire population of Chile! We felt the size when we had to take the bus, metro, taxi combination the first day we got here. That trip took us about 1.5 hours to cross the capital to Trinidad where Nelson (our Zeitgeist Movement contact) lives with his family and girlfriend Valeria.

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Our first days in Trinidad were very relaxing and on the first morning we helped Nelson and Valeria replenish the soil in the vegetable patch and plant some new seedlings while Nelson was making a door for his new hen cage. The following days we chilled out and had a few evenings of drinks and fun. Nelson’s place was a really nice place to stay. He and Valeria made our stay with them as comfortable as possible. It started to feel like home for us, which was nice after nearly a month of constantly moving around Cuba.

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On another day Nelson needed help with the stage he was building in his back yard. I must say, it’s no usual back yard, it’s huge! About the size of a football pitch I would say. The stage his is building is for the Zeitgeist Media Festival 2013 that will take place in the following summer. The stage would be made out of junk that was laying around in the back yard, surrounded and held in by pallets. You could call it an Eco-stage as materials no longer needed were being put to use. The tractor you see in the picture was used to move the rubbish and earth into place. Unfortunately we didn’t have the keys to drive it :( although the picture that shows otherwise, is cool!

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Most evenings when the sun disappeared and the temperature fell rapidly down to about 12 deg, we sat around the bar and shared some good Chilean beer (Escudo was the weapon of choice) and as a special for one evening some native Cuban rum and cigars :) this led to various discussions about our trip so far and lots of talk about The Zeitgeist Movement worldwide and in Latin America. It was interesting to hear of similar problems that the chapter in Frankfurt also shared at some point, but also other events that didn’t occur or that seemed only to relate to the local culture.

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When it came to eating in Santiago it’s best to cook at home if you want to eat cheap and healthy. It’s worth noting that the cheapest and best food can be found at the local markets that are open every Wednesday and Saturday. Here you can find lots of goods ranging from vegetables, meat, fish, domestics and other general household items. The supermarkets seem to be heavily overpriced. If on the road and you need a quick bite, it’s quite hard to find anything without sugar pumped in one way or another. The tasty Completo is a good example of a snack that you will find everywhere, but here one will also find that the bread is sweetened  The only fast-food we found that was pretty healthy in Santiago was sushi, however this was quite expensive for the average quick snack.

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After a week in Santiago with temperatures rising slowly by the day, Nelson thought it was time to clean the pool after a winter of collecting all sorts of vegetation, animals and bacteria. I wondered why the pool was left full for the winter and there is a very good reason behind it. It protects the pool from cracking and fracturing in the event of an earthquake. This seemed to be common knowledge for Chileans who live in earthquake prone areas. So without further a due we drained the pool and removed the crap with the help of the ladies and Nelson’s son, Nelson. When that was complete, we engaged the women into cleaning mode :) while the chaps tapped into a beer and smoke while taking the picture above. Not quite true as after the short break we took to the pool and started scrubbing! Hard work as it took a while in the blazing sun to get it looking like new, but it was worth it.

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Later that day we went to Parque Metropolitano de Santiago where the famous virgin of San Cristobal stands. We walked up the hill just before sunset and from there we saw some really nice views over Santiago. Our vision was somewhat impaired by the thick layer of smog that encompasses the huge valley where Santiago is situated. Its a known fact in Santiago that the city is surrounded by tall mountains that don’t allow the smog to escape easily. The best day to visit would be a sunny day after rain or a storm. Right in front of the statue was an incredible open air church with the best views I ever seen from any church I’ve been too.

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After trekking back down the hill we met up with Valeria where we enjoyed and nice couple of liters of the local beer Escudo. Its very common in South America to drink from liter bottles. I must say that I completely agree! Liter bottles are much more cost efficient, stay colder longer due to less surface area per volume of beer and they use less resources than smaller bottles. I’m all for it. We should introduce these in Europe for sure. It make take some investment to change the production lines, however we will all reap the benefits once introduced into the market. Becks recently introduced the 500 cc into Germany and right now it seems to be a popular choice.

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When we got back to the casa Nelson fired up the grill for some amazing steak with salad and some tasty Chilean wine. An active day it was, compared to our lazy previous ones.

Next week we are heading to the nearby, bohemian, west coast town of Valparaiso where we will be probing the Pacific waters for the first time in our lives, spotting some local wildlife, eating Completos and checking out the famous local art.

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25th October Havana, Cuba to Santiago, Chile

What a good night sleep compared to the night before! Short but sweet you could say. Today was departure day so we had set our alarms for 05:00 in order to get a taxi for 06:00 to the airport. The plane was scheduled for departure at 08:25 so we gave ourselves 30 mins to get to the airport. The taxi arrived early so we managed to leave for 05:45 which was good. Our driver was efficient to say the least. Normally it would take about 45 mins to get there, he managed it in 25!

When we got to the airport we both had a feeling of relief. After all the commotion and the events of the last days, we nearly couldn’t believe that we made it! As we were reasonably early, we checked in before the tour buses arrived with no queues in sight :) We paid the airport tax and proceeded to the security gate. As the rucksack passed through the scanner one of the security guards ask to open the bag. She pulled out the Chuck Norris clipper lighter that Marlon kindly gave us as a present before we left and without a wink of an eye, she threw it straight in the bin! Bollocks.

We got on the plane direction Panama City flying in a fairly new Boeing 737-800. Here we would have to wait approximately 1h 40min for a connecting flight to Santiago. From Havana to Panama it took 2h 30min and for the rest of the journey to Santiago 6h 30min.

After a comfortable journey with Copa Airlines we touched down in Santiago at 20:15 just as the sun was setting over the Andes. Its a shame our camera ran out of steam on the way as the view was incredible. Our bags were conveniently waiting for us on the belt after passing through immigration. We got into the reception hall where we had a glimpse of hope that Nelson (TZM Chile Coordinator) was waiting for us there as we did contact him 2 weeks before in Cuba. He wasn’t there unfortunately as we later found out at an internet kiosk in the airport that we should have confirmed his previous email. We did plan to use the internet during the last couple of days in Havana, however as mentioned in previous posts, we had serious money issues to worry about.

While at the kiosk we saved Nelson’s mobile number that we received in the email into our phone and bought a Chilian SIM card to make local calls. We contacted him and he was happy yet surprised to hear me as he later mentioned that he forgot about our arrival given the lack of updates on our behalf. We weren’t sure if it was still ok to stay with them, but Nelson generously told us to come straight over to his house. He gave us directions so we set off on our journey across Santiago using a combination of bus, metro and taxi. He lived in the southern end of Santiago in a district called La Florida. We got off the metro at Trinidad and took a 3min bus journey from there directly to his house. If it was during the day we could have easily walked, but Nelson insisted we take a Taxi at night as it could be risky given the crime associated with that area. It did seem bad to us, but I suppose you could be unlucky.

We arrived at Nelson’s house where he and his girlfriend Valeria greeted us with warmth into their home. We were so glad to arrive at our final destination as we were on the move all day since the early morning. We stayed up talking with them at his awesome minibar and had a few well deserved beers with a tasty completo italiano (basically a hotdog with guackamole, finely chopped tomato, mayo, ketchup and mustard).

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24th October Havana, Cuba

Our last day in Cuba, but what a pain, no money… We woke up with this feeling. First of all we needed some money to see us through the day, so we decided to ask our host to lend us some 5 CUC.

Our first stop was the bank, where we wanted to try and figure out what is going on with my Commerzbank card. Unfortunately they couldn’t help us there at all… So that was the wasted half an hour walk. In the meantime we were speaking to Anna via SMS trying to figure out what else we can do. Anna came up with the idea of western union, so we went there in the hope to get money sent to us. Would you believe it, western union in Cuba does not accept money from Europe, only from the United States… How stupid is that! Cubans won’t accept any American credit cards, but you can only sent money to Cuba from US!!! Anyway, this failed.

Next stop was the place where they deal with all credit card problems. Unfortunately by the time we got there, local time in Germany was coming up to 6 pm. People in the office were extremely helpful and let us use their phone for international calls to our banks. There I managed to find out that my Commerzbank card was blocked due to an attempt of fraud… how lucky!!! DKB people were not helpful either.

Our next chance to come up with cash was to try and ask the British embassy for a loan. The embassy was miles away and we started walking under the burning hot sun. After some 20 minutes of walking we stopped to get some shade on one of the streets. There was a car parked right next to the spot where we stopped, a Russian old Moskvich, but very well done up. The guy got out of the car and asked us in English if we have a problem. This was strange in itself as not many people actually speak English. We said that we do indeed have a problem and told him the whole story. The guy, his name was Rigo, kindly offered to give us a ride to the embassy. As we were arriving he said that in case the embassy fails to help us he will try to help. We were really surprised by this offer as the guy literally just met us!!! Anyway we got his phone number and got out of the car.

So, here we were at the embassy, last hope. We went in, spoke for ages to a guy there, explaining the whole situation. The verdict was, they can help us, but they can only give us money next day, which didn’t work for us as we were to leave Havana at 6 am next day.

The only thing left was to call Rigo and see if he can magically lend us money. And so we called him and he said that he can be next to the embassy in 2 hours. We waited for just over two hours and there was no sign of Rigo. We sent him another text and he responded that he is still busy and doesn’t know when he is going to be able to pick us up. As we didn’t have many other options left, we said we would wait. And we waited for 7 hours. I have never played so much of “I spy with my little eye” and also we found that the ratio of Moskvitch to Lada in Havana is approximately 1:6 :))) Things you do when you are bored :)

It was starting to get dark and we could feel the wind picking up, as the Sandy was getting closer. It started to rain and the lightning stroke just a few meters from us. Scary business, I covered my head when it happened and Alex had a good laugh at me for doing so :)

Rigo arrived just as we were about to leave… Amazing!!! He drove us to a part of Havana where we have never been before, run into a house and returned with a giant stack of money. Counted 130 CUC for us and even gave us some change for the taxi to get back to the hotel. He didn’t know anything about us and gave us money just like that!!! The only thing he gave us was his business card with e-mail address on it and asked us to send him an e-mail so he can respond with his bank details. We were over the moon!!!

We got to the centre and decided to treat ourselves to a last night in Cuba meal at our favourite Castropol. It was amazing, one minute we didn’t have any money and the next we were eating in a lovely restaurant!

We got back to the hotel, packed and had the best 5 hour sleep ever! ;)

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